Heels with History: The Idea of Archival Allure

When I mention the words Cruel Summer, I’m not talking about the Taylor Swift song, nor am I talking about the Hulu series. I’m talking about the iconic Giuseppe Zanotti heel that made its debut in 2012. As a result of a collaboration between Kanye West and the designer, the heels made their first appearance during Milan Fashion Week, to coincide with the launch of G.O.O.D Music’s Cruel Summer. Thirteen years later, you can see these same heels in a TikTok slideshow that speaks on “Must-Have Archive Heels.”

Archive heels refer to designs that aren’t in current production, but are still within the living memory of the brand and collectors. They’re not as old as vintage heels, but they still carry that aura of rarity and legacy. These heels are currently having a moment: runway icons that once collected dust in closets or secondhand shops are being revived and resold at high prices. Most importantly of all, some of these heels are being rereleased due to the gained popularity of the archived piece.

Giuseppe Zanotti’s “Slim” Sandal

Beyonce wearing the shoes at the 2003 VMA’s. *Courtesy of* *Pinterest*

Featured in a memorable Sex and the City scene on Samantha Jones’ feet, the Slim sandal is one of Zanotti’s most recognizable pieces. It’s composed of a metallic spine climbing the foot, resembling the skeletal form of a fish.

The Slim sandal made its debut in Zanotti’s SS 2004 collection and was imagined into existence during dinner at a restaurant bearing the same name.

Now twenty-one years later, the heel has been redesigned as the Slim 2.0 and will be available for purchase on October 14th.

Dsquared 2 “Skate Moss” Ice-Skate Heel

Dsquared2’s “Skate Moss” heel is another standout archive heel, as they’re boots with ice-skate blades converted into stiletto heels. The original concept debuted in 2011 and it gained status in street style and archival resale arenas. Below, you can see the heels pictured on Mariah the Scientist, one of the celebrities that were able to secure this heel.

Dsquared2 posted a TikTok on Jan 19th, showing the archival style modelled by one of the label’s founders. The comments were flooded with fans begging for the shoe to be rereleased, with many comments saying they were able to afford the shoe now. Even Naomi Osaka took to the comments stating that she’s been trying to find her size for years. With all this information, Dsquared2 took it as a sign to bring back this highly anticipated shoe. As part of their 30th anniversary, they reintroduced the silhouette, leaning into nostalgic demand, while also hiking the price up. The Reimagined “Skate Moss” heel will be released this fall, at $3,190, in comparison to the original price of $1,485-$1,895. I wonder if those people who said they had the money for it now were expecting that price.

Jimmy Choo “Archive” Collection: 72138

Originally released in 1998, these Jimmy Choo heels took to the big screen in 2000. Named after its serial number, these shoes were also featured on an episode of Sex and the City entitled “Wait! I lost my Choo!” This shoe was considered to be a representation of everything that Carrie Bradshaw stood for. The 72138 heel became an integral part of fashion to these characters and people’s lives. The cultural mark that SATC made with Carrie Bradshaw’s heels was enough for Jimmy Choo to rerelease an “Archive” collection for their 30th anniversary. This heel is one of many available to purchase in the collection, which capitalizes on eight heels from 1997-2001.

How to Navigate the Archive-Heel Wave

We all see the hold that archive heels are taking and some of us want to be a part of it. Here are five tips to consider when looking to purchase an archive piece.

1. Study the archive timeline.

It helps to know when a design debuted, the season, and how it was documented. This helps you to assess the legitimacy of your heel and how much the value of it is.

2. Demand origins.

Your heels that you’re looking at can be verified through a multitude of ways. Always ask about the origins of the heel. Check and see if this heel has actually debuted on a runway, in a lookbook, a catalog, and if the original packaging is offered with the product. These will boost the credibility of the seller and help you avoid getting a fake.

3. Set your limit.

Heels are speculative assets and the prices can go up or down at any time. Don’t overpay for hype. Wait until after the first round of a reissue or even look for the original release if you can. Make offers to your sellers as they’re usually willing to negotiate.

4. Watch high and low markets.

High-end consignment websites such as TheRealReal and Vestiaire Collective show the higher price points of shoes. You can find bargains on marketplaces such as Poshmark, Grailed, Vinted, and Depop. Even going in person to pawn shops or thrift stores can do some good, it would just take an extra step to get those shoes authenticated.

5. Condition matters!

When shopping for an archive piece, you can’t always expect perfect condition. But since these are collectible pieces, you would want to avoid shoes with extreme defects. Always make sure the price is comparable to what you receive!

Archive heels occupy an interesting space as they’re not old enough to be antique, but rare enough to be cult. The resurgence of these heels isn’t only tied to nostalgia, but also to storytelling and a collector mindset. When these fashion houses dig into their vaults, the market is willing to listen and pay the price. In a world chasing the next trend, archive heels remind us that true style doesn’t only walk forward. It circles back with purpose, carrying history in each heeled step.

Featured Image Courtesy of Pinterest