Jonathan Anderson Takes Over Dior Homme
Just a week ago, the ex-Loewe master designer, Jonathan Anderson was announced to take over Dior Homme (menswear), a position that Kim Jones held not long ago. It came at a surprise for many, not because we didn’t know he was going to Dior, but because we all thought that Anderson would take over Dior's womenswear and menswear. The exciting part of the news lies in Anderson finally ousting Maria Grazia Chiuri from Dior women’s, who has been frequently criticized for her lacklustre design. Despite being under attack almost every season, Chiuri is a powerhouse at generating profit, which might be why she managed to hold tight to her throne despite what rumors suggested.
Anderson took over the small Spanish leather house 11 years ago when no one paid much attention to Loewe despite its long history. In 10 years, the Irish designer took the house to 1 billion in sales, making it one of the most popular brands in the industry. Anderson himself started 17 years ago with his eponymous label–JW Anderson–after graduating from the London College of Fashion. The brand initially focused solely on menswear but later expanded into womenswear due to demand. His success caught the attention of the British Fashion Council and later the luxury conglomerate LVMH, which would appoint him the creative director of Loewe in 2013. His tenure at the brand is nothing short of legendary, as not many designers can say they’ve transformed a brand into global success aesthetically and commercially. After all, it's hard to make interesting, thoughtful clothes while being able to sell them in large quantities; the best example would be Chiuri at Dior.
To pinpoint Anderson’s years at Loewe, I would say it was always unapologetically playful, at times childlike, but in the best way possible. It’s his whimsically playful attitude that continued to bring us pleasant surprises in his shows. From the leather moulded dress to the grass shoes to the pixelated hoodies, Anderson used fashion not as a form of serving the body but as a way to reimagine the way we live. Although aesthetically far apart, his approach to fashion is reminiscent of the Japanese avant-garde, like Rei Kawakubo and her proteges, who, as a collective, never cease to rethink what dressing is about.
Anderson’s boundless imagination was praised by fashion editors, but it also made him a red carpet’s favorite, dressing new stars like Omar Apollo and Drew Starkey for their Queer press events. Anderson was also behind the costume design for Queer along with Challengers which starred Zendaya, Josh O’Connor, and Mike Feist. If anyone paid attention during Challengers to what Tashi, played by Zendaya, wears in the film, they would notice a Loewe product. The endless publicity propelled Loewe to the top spots on Lyst fashion’s hottest brand almost every quarter.
Courtesy of GQ
What made Anderson a true fan’s favorite wasn’t just the celebrity support and his exhilarating fashion shows. In the end, what matters to clients and the executives is the product. Many designers succeed in putting on remarkable shows for the press and the select few clients who are willing to buy a six figure dress for a dinner but fail miserably to properly translate their visions into hot merchandise. These fashion houses need a green bottom line to run; the staff certainly don’t work for free and investors most certainly hate to see red ink on their quarterly reports. Anderson brought in 1 billion worth of sales with amazing products. The most iconic item is the Loewe Puzzle bag, which was beloved by both male and female clients, which is an achievement to say the least.
Now that Anderson is moving on to Dior, I hope he retains his sense of playfulness at the brand, which tends to be more reserved and elegant. The people who are buying Loewe are certainly different from those who shop at Dior. He’s set to debut this year, but before then, we can only anticipate the new direction of Dior Homme. Considering his massive success at Loewe, I do not doubt that Anderson’s new tenure at the couturier will continue to be a success. Though forcing him to only design for menswear is a bit of letdown, since he really shines in womenswear. I also think there’s more freedom when it comes to merchandising as well, since men tend to dress in banal clothes like a logoed polo or if they are young a logo-ed hoodie. Maybe Anderson can convince the older clients at Dior to have fun with their wardrobe, to not be afraid to dream a little, which is something he always embodied.
Featured Image Courtesy of Vogue